Heading Home

Another long travel day. My flight to Miami leaves at 7:30 and Mariela at Condor's House insists that I should be at the airport 3 hours before, so I'm up at 3:00 to catch a cab at 4:00. I arrive at the airport at 4:30 and I'm checked in and through security by 4:40.

The upside is that they also give me a pass to the VIP lounge at checkin, so I head over there. The lounge is great, like the lobby in a first class hotel with tables, couches, TV, free wifi, drinks and breakfast with espresso machine. I relax and browse the internet while sipping several cafe americanos until the attendant lets me know that my flight is boarding. It's a short walk to the gate next door and with my priority boarding pass I just walk right onto the plane.

You'd think that they would move this stuff somewhere besides the takeoff point


Coastline of Peru


And shortly the first class service commences. This is the first course of breakfast


And the second course


Somewhere over the Caribbean


After a light lunch we land in Miami on time. I have a 2 hour layover then off to Chicago. The flight to Chicago, however, is delayed. First 20 minutes, then 45, then an hour, then an hour and a half. Finally we're in the air. I catch the Blue Line downtown somewhere after 8:00 and I'm back home by 9. I call Lou Malnati's for dinner and throw the worst of the trekking clothes into the washer and call it a day.

Good to sleep in a real bed again.

More Lima

Big day touring Lima Centro.

All of the showers have these builtin electric heaters for hot water. It's a little unnerving seeing a bunch of wires sticking out over your head while showering.



This guard at the Governor's palace was leaning against the wall texting his girlfriend when I asked him if I could take his picture. He said Si then sprang into the alert guard posture for the picture.


The monastery of San Francisco. I took the tour but no picture were allowed. The inside was incredible, built in the 1600s with amazing detail. Our guide would show us one section, for instance the monk's library, then say "but in the earthquake of 1734 it fell down." The monk's dining room with detailed frescoes, "but in the earthquake of 1827 it fell down." Or the mosaics in the courtyard, "but in the earthquake of 1912 it fell down."



This kid was going crazy feeding the pigeons in the courtyard.



Across the street at a coffee shop.


Near the Plaza des Armas, some policia with their horses.


There's a small demonstration down the street but everyone seems relaxed.


I go into the Museo de la Inquisición in the Senate building to see the torture displays.


Nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition....



From the 1700's when they still crucified people.


More of the Inquisition




After finishing my tour I go back to the front door but they aren't letting anybody out. There's a lot of shouting on the other side of the door, but finally they let myself and a few other gringos out. Suddenly I'm in the middle of a demonstration on the Senate steps, facing the wrong way into the mounted police. The police and demonstrators seem to be getting along but the trucks with the water cannons and machine guns are right down the street (the driver wagged his finger at me when I asked if I could take a picture of them) so I figure it's best to scoot out of there to the back side of the policia.


Down the street I get a great lunch of spaghetti and meatballs with a tamale and juice for 6 soles.


Lima side street



The Peruvian flag.


Looking across the river to the slums. For some reason in Peru the poor people live on the hillsides, with the good views, while the rich people live in the city center.



A turkey on the railroad tracks.


Llams in the petting zoo.



Typical bodega...great colors.


Inka Kola and another Peruvian pizza.


Christmas is coming.



The soccer stadium is by the highway back to Miraflores, there is a national playoff game today and people are lined up for a mile to get into the stadium.



Back in Miraflores it's still foggy by the ocean.


I head to an Asian restaurant for dinner. The menu is Chinese translated into Spanish which is a little hard to understand; everyone in the restaurant speaks Spanish with a heavy Chinese accent if you can picture that.

I get this mixed grill plate which comes out steaming so much they had to open the front door to clear it out. The picture is after it cooled down for awhile, still steaming like crazy. It was very good although I still have no idea exactly what it was.



Lima

Up early for once, I catch a cab to the airport around 7 for an 8:50 flight to Lima. The flight goes smoothly although once again all I can see of Peru is clouds.

The driver from my hostel picks me up at the airport and it's about a half hour drive to Condor's House in Miraflores. Miraflores is an upscale touristy neighborhood with lots of old houses side by side with new highrises.

The back yard at Condor's house


Front yard


After getting settled in, I meet up with world famous travel photographer/journalist/author Dean Jacobs (  http://www.deanjacobs.org/ ) who is currently on a six month trip exploring the Amazon River basin. Dean spent the last six weeks in Ecuador and just arrived in Peru to continue his expedition. 

We decide to catch a cab to the Lima Central district. The first cab wanted 20 soles for the trip, way too much according to the people at the hostel. We get the next guy to accept our offer of 12 soles but then wonder if we shouldn't have gone with the first guy. This cab is really rickety and stalls several times on the side streets before the highway. Just before getting on the highway he pulls over and gets about 75 cents worth of gas for the trip downtown (Gas stations here are just a bunch of pumps in the median of the street. It seems pretty convenient as you can just pull over in the left lane and fill up then just keep on driving down the street.) 


We eventually make it to the Plaza de Armas without having to get out and push.


The national Christmas tree


Ornaments on the tree



All afternoon there were Peruvian military planes circling the city and flying over the Government Palace


In front of the ancient fountain and Cathedral of Lima.


Palace guards. There is a big ceremonial changing of the guard every day at 6pm but I never managed to catch it.


With the Policia Nacional in front of the palace. I asked them if I could take a picture of the group and the captain said "Here, let me take a picture of you."


This arcade is dedicated to dozens of stalls selling only postcards and greeting cards.


More Policia at the back door of the palace.


Altar at a nearby church.


All of the old church doors are studded with these giant metal knobs.


Back in Miraflores, a typical house with a nice old Land Rover.


The ocean, about three blocks from the hostel. Water was pretty cold, a lot of people surfing but otherwise nobody in the water.


Heading out to look for dinner, walking down the main street.


After passing up McDonald's, KFC, Papa Johns and Dominos Pizza I finally found a regular restaurant. This is a giant grilled ham and cheese, with mayo and some kind of spicy dressing on the side.



Last day in Cusco

No big plans today, sleep late, getting ready to leave and doing some Christmas shopping.

I head back down to the big market for lunch. Here is a booth specializing in Lomo Saltado.


This is about the 4th time I've eaten this here in Peru and it's still really good. Can't beat the price either, 6 soles (about $2)


A walk through the central market.


I have no idea what's going on in here but the sign cracked me up.


Streets of Cusco






I stop at a Dutch hipster coffee house for some coffee and a snack, meatballs with spicy mustard.




Snack truck in San Blas


Plaza de Armas at night.


A last stop at the cookie window and off to bed.